Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion
Thanks for telling us about the problem. Return to Book Page. Some articles describe the colorful facets of couture and textiles, from fabrics of chintz, corduroy, and feathers to such garb as aprons, bikinis, and prison "Steele, director of the Fashion Institute of Technology Museum, has crafted, with the help of contributors, an authoritative introduction to fashion, the industry, and the issues that hve defined the field.
Some articles describe the colorful facets of couture and textiles, from fabrics of chintz, corduroy, and feathers to such garb as aprons, bikinis, and prison dress.
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- Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion : Scribner Library of Daily Life;
There are color plates and nearly black-and-white illustrations. Back matter includes a comprehensive index, a timeline, and a topical outline. Get A Copy. Hardcover , 3 pages.
Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion by Valerie Steele
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The surface was glazed or calendered pressed through hot rollers. Also spelled callimanco , calimanco , and kalamink. Caracul lamb — an alternative spelling for karakul: the glossy, tightly curled fleece of the fetal or newborn karakul lamb. Carding — the process of brushing the wool for woolen fabric in two directions before weaving. See woolen. Chesterfield coat — an overcoat with simple vertical seams, no side-back piece, and a velvet collar, usually in grey with black. Prehistory-present in Asian textiles , s-present in Western textiles.
As the fabric was worn and washed, the gum would gradually wash away, and the fabric would become softer and whiter.
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Prehistory-early 20th century. Chinchilla — a pale grey when undyed and extremely soft and plush fur from the chinchilla rodent of South America.
Chinchillas are now endangered, and hunting them is illegal. Introduced to European fashion in the 17th century, and particularly popular from Uncommon since the s. See also Ikat. The term now usually refers to floral designs, rather than to the fabric itself. See also polished cotton.
It can have a brim or be brimless. Cloth — woolen fabric. See also woolen. Colonial shoe — an 18th century inspired heeled shoe with a tongued vamp and an ornamental metal buckle on the front of the shoe. Corset — Originally an unboned, quilted, front-lacing under- bodice worn informally , any boned, stiffened, waist compessing undergarment present. Cromwell buckle or Cromwell shoe — a shoe with a medium to high heel, usually with some 18th century influence, with an ornamental metal buckle on the front of the shoe the buckle being the Cromwell buckle.
Also known as, bemberg , and bemberg silk. There are tone-on-tone damasks, with different weaves within the damask creating elaborate floral or geometric patterns, and multicoloured damasks, where the background colours and the pattern colours reverse from front to back. Dazzle camouflage consisted of patterns of broken stripes and spots, and influenced fashion through the use of black and white, abstract patterning, and broken lines. See also Jazz Stripes. Dobby weaves — simple patterned weaves such as birds eye, dotted swiss, honeycomb weaves and elaborate twills, created with the 40 possible thread frames of the dobby loom.
More elaborate patterns are created on a jacquard loom. Sometimes used as part of a chatelaine. The term appears in French from at least as early as the midth century, and was adopted for English use as a more elegant alternative to neckerchief in the early 19th century. Midth century- s French , Early 19th century s English.
See also robings. Flame — Louis XIV favourite colour, a brilliant orange- red. Also called a fork or forge. Style seen from the s onward, name used from the s onward. Most fashionable , , s-present. Froufrou — the characteristic rustling sound of silk. See also scroop. Also known as waulking and tucking. It has a distinctive tight, whorled, loopy surface with a slight sheen. Granny Squares — crocheted blocks, usually worked in bits of leftover yarn, that can be joined together to form throws or clothes.
Clothing during the colonial period
Guimpe — A short blouse to be worn under a jumper, or a fill for a low cut dress. Similar to a dickey or chemisette. See also: buffons , fichu , pocket handkerchief , neckerchief. Very similar to lawn, but always made of linen. Modern holland is not as fine as lawn. Sometimes also refers to fabrics which have been pre-printed to produce the same effect.
Imperial Brocade : brocade or other jacquard weaves with the inclusion of gold or silver coloured threads. It is also called brocading. Indispensable — alternative name for a reticule, a small drawstring purse carried by women. Late 18th-early 19th century. Jacquard weaves — elaborate weaves such as brocade, damask, matelasse etc. Since the mid 19th century jacquard weaves have been created with a jacquard head attachment fitted to a dobby loom , rather than with a dedicated jacquard loom.
Inspired by WWI Dazzle camouflage.
Karakul lambskin — the glossy, tightly curled fleece of the fetal or newborn karakul lamb. Lawn — a lightweight, slightly sheer, tightly woven, plain tabby weave fabric, with fine, glossy threads and no surface texture. The sole of a Louis heeled shoe extends down the front breast of the heel, rather than stopping where the heel meets the sole, as in other heel styles.